2004 Honda Accord EX DIY Alternator Replacement
Monday, July 12, 2010 3:47Posted in category Uncategorized
Thanks for watching! Please rate, comment & subscribe. This is how to check the battery and charging system, as well as replace the alternator on a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder. If you do it yourself you can save money. How-to DIY electrical diagnosis.
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sylvaner01 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@roadragecustoms Thanks for the reply, i’ll test the battery next time the light is on, Cheers
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@sylvaner01 Check the voltage while the battery light is on and the engine is running. If the problem is intermittent, this may not be easy. Most likely, the voltage is dropping when the light comes on. This could be an indication of an alternator that is starting to go. I wouldn’t condemn the battery yet.
sylvaner01 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
G’day, my battery measures 13v when the car is off, then about 14-15 with the engine on, yet sometimes my battery light comes on, does this mean i need a new battery?
sylvaner01 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Thanks heaps for your help, would have cost me a fortune having a mechanic test this stuff.
Cheers!
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@randomhero4u69 They go in quicker if you’re not talking into a camera while you install them too!
randomhero4u69 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
GREAT video, just what i needed to make this go faster. PERFECT camera angles, speed, and information….I replaced the on my F250 and it was a pain since i just jumped into it…now this will go by in like 10 minutes haha. Thanks again.
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@Rockford91Fosgate Some high output alternators are bigger alternators. Some just have a smaller pulley to make them spin faster. It isn’t uncommon to run multiple alternators to keep up with the stereo system. If you buy a high output alternator that isn’t made for a specific car & try to put it in something it’s not made for, you will need to be really good at fabrication & machining brackets. Also, most anything you change from stock will cause the required belt size to change too.
Rockford91Fosgate says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
what if you bought a high output alternator for the same vehicle would it be the same idea?would the high out put alt be bigger?
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@rapandrnb Yes, I would remove the belt before the bolts. (I assume you have already disconnected the negative battery terminal.) Is the bolt stuck, hard to access, or behind the belt?
rapandrnb says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
hi guys how are you, i have a 2003 honda s2000, do i have to take of the belt before i remove the actual alternator, as i took of the first screw at the top, and i couldn’t get the second one off, i dident want to keep trying and fuck up the screw, any ideas on how to get the second one of ???
farangkeenok says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
hey roadrage, i was finally able to get off the bottom bolts of the alternator! haha…
i had to use a bunch of extensions and a swivel to snake around some spaces but it worked. thanks for the vid, you inspired me.
farangkeenok says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@roadragecustoms
thanks for the reply! i liked the rest of your video, it was very informative. you’re my only hope on the net that i’ve found to do this job. one of the bottom bolts on the passengers side is accessable but the one closer to the driver’s side is in a very cramped space so i’m really impressed you were able to do it and as you say without doing anything special. to me, it looks like i have to remove the radiator to get at it. thanks again.
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
@farangkeenok I had to watch the video again. I didn’t intentionally edit that out to hide anything-only to edit for time. I would think that if I had to do anything special on those two bolts, I would have showed it on the video. The next time I get a similar car to work on, I’ll look at the alternator & see what it takes to access the lower bolts. I know this doesn’t help you now, sorry.
farangkeenok says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
the video showing him removing the bottom 2 bolts on the alternator was edited out! how do u remove those? they are in very tight spaces, not really possible to get a socket or wrench on there because of the a/c hose and rad reservoir in the way
lowend15 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Great video. have a 2004 TSX and it is exactly the same. I had the opposite problem, you had a shorted diode, I have an open diode. Checked with an O-scope and have like 1.5 V pk-pk ripple. It was still charging, no battery light, but my lights flickered rhytmically. From what I understand my issue would not “fail” a bench test. Anyway, getting ready to replace it, saw your video, and it is great!
soldieroscar says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
thanks for the good video
supertrex2 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
very nice, i wish i have a neighbor like you.
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Check all of the fuses. Have the alternator tested too.
danielc365 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Quick question i have a 1999 Nissan Altima and today i had to drive downtown and by accident left my head lights on i come back out the battery is dead and i had a lot of people jumping my car and now i have no electric functions at all my speed and other gauges don’t work my windows dont work nothing not even the radio so i drove home but the car didn’t want to move it did move but felt like it the acceleration was very weak and dosent stay running without the battery whats the problem???
pnaikpoos says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Hi again Dave ! Please send me your step by step how to do it ( Install Starter).
Thank you,
pnaikpoos says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Hello roadragecustoms! Did you make a video on how to install a starter on 2004 Honda Accord ? I would like to see how you install it. I know where the starter is located, but it seems difficult to get it off from the vehicle and reinstall it back. Thanks,
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
If it’s being tested correctly, I’d check the wiring & fuses. At least keep the core for the alternator until you know whether or not the new one fixes it.
lalleyboy101 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
It test bad on the car and test good off the car
roadragecustoms says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Didn’t you say the alternator tests good? If so, was that on the car or off?
lalleyboy101 says:
July 12th, 2010 at 3:47 AM
Yes it has to be jumped and sit on the cables for awile. I called gm today and he said I should just buy a new alt cause its probly not the fuse
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